Melbourne & Surroundings: Penguins, the Puffing Billy, Great Ocean Road & Mungo National Park

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Advisor - Elizabeth Gudrais
Curated By

Elizabeth Gudrais

  • Nature Escapes

  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Travel

  • Arts & Culture

  • Active Travel

  • Melbourne

  • Local Culture

  • Foodie

Advisor - Melbourne & Surroundings: Penguins, the Puffing Billy, Great Ocean Road & Mungo National Park
Curator’s statement

Melbourne is a playground of delights for foodies as well as anyone who loves the arts. With many different neighborhoods to explore—each with its own distinctive flavor—it has plenty to keep you busy within the city limits. However, it’s also a gateway to some of Australia’s most stunning and memorable natural and historical attractions. We spent a week in this area during a five-week Australian trip, and that wasn’t nearly enough time. We are eager to return! If clients are asking me whether they should include Melbourne in their Australia itinerary, my answer is always a wholehearted yes!

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Things to do in Melbourne

Foodie tour

You should allow plenty of time for wandering the neighborhoods and laneways and simply exploring during your time in Melbourne. An organized food tour can be one way to bring a bit more structure to your exploration and ensure that you find some gems of restaurants with the limited time you have. If your food tour starts in Chinatown, this is the perfect activity to pair with tickets to a musical theater production in the nearby theater district (if the timing aligns).

Immigration Museum

Located in the Old Customs House, this museum explores the historical trends that have contributed to the multicultural society of today’s Australia. Afterward, enjoy the modern architecture and waterfront views of the nearby Docklands neighborhood.

Old Melbourne Gaol

Step inside this Victorian-era prison building (complete with cells you can enter and the original gallows) and learn the stories of some of Australia’s most notorious criminals. For an especially bone-chilling glimpse into the site’s gruesome past, book tickets for the “Ghosts? What Ghosts?” tour or the Hangman’s Night Tour.

St. Kilda

This neighborhood, located on the water south of the city center, is known for hip indie restaurants and shops, and is home to the city’s Pride March, as well as several arts-related festivals. Head here for funky coffee shops during the day or a vibrant nightlife after dark. If you’re walking down from the city center (which locals call the CBD, or central business district), stop into the Royal Botanic Gardens to enjoy the green space and rare plant specimens.

Brighton Beach bathing boxes

These beach shacks painted in cheerful colors are a local institution. They are privately owned, often passed down within families—and when one goes up for sale, the high price usually makes headlines (such as one recent sale for $450,000). Originally built as changing rooms, the bathing boxes ensure front-row seats (with shade) at the beach. Visitors to the beach can usually get a glimpse inside at least a handful of the huts to see how the current owners use them—from storage sheds for watersports equipment to gathering spaces decked out for a party (inasmuch as that’s possible without running water or electricity).

Places to eat & drink in Melbourne

Seamstress

This historic building has seen many uses over the years—among them a brothel and a Buddhist monastery. The name and the decor of the current occupant, a restaurant, pay homage to its time as a textile factory. The restaurant’s Asian fusion menu is excellent, but the real standouts are the craft cocktails with distinctive ingredients such as chili liqueur and Japanese plum wine.

Cookie

This Asian fusion restaurant with a Thai foundation attracts a see-and-be-seen crowd, but it’s not all about appearances—the food is actually delicious. Come hungry, as you won’t want to miss a single course—from dumplings and glass noodles to roti and curries of various kinds, onward to spare ribs and barramundi wrapped in a banana leaf, and finally desserts such as banana fritters and a lychee pancake with coconut ice cream.

Muli Express

Drop by this unassuming oyster bar for the catch of the day. The freshest local oysters are always on offer, along with specialties including congee and sea urchin—and even oyster ice cream! This isn’t so much a sit-and-eat place as a standing-room-only spot to down a delicious seafood snack on the way to your next delicious course.

Shandong MaMa

You might not expect much from this restaurant, given its location inside an arcade, but judge the quality of the food based on how busy it is (consistently packed from wall to wall). Try an assortment of the dumplings they’re known for—some with characteristic fillings typical of China’s Shandong Province, others with local Australian specialties.

Tonka

Tucked away off Flinders Lane, one of Melbourne’s most iconic laneways, is this Indian-inspired restaurant run by the same team behind Coda, a French-Vietnamese fusion restaurant that is a Melbourne institution (and also worth trying). The menu features local Australian ingredients prepared with Indian-inspired flavors and techniques.

Hardware Lane

A popular spot among locals and tourists alike, this lane is lined with restaurants, from Mexican and Argentinian to Israeli and Vietnamese.

Piccolina

Follow your Hardware Lane dinner with gelato at Piccolina, where you can find classic flavors as well as those made from local ingredients such as wattleseed (described as having notes of coffee, chocolate, and hazelnut). The gelateria has several other locations and is worth seeking out.

Sister of Soul

The St. Kilda neighborhood has no shortage of excellent restaurants (spanning Italian to Japanese and beyond), but this plant-based restaurant is a true standout. Vegetarians will thrill at a flavor-packed menu that caters to them. With breakfast, dinner, and cocktail menus all bursting with appealing offerings, one visit might not be enough.

Berlin Bar

Choose between West Berlin and East Berlin when you arrive at this history-themed hotspot tucked away with a nondescript sign on an upper floor in the city center. If you select East, you’ll be seated on minimalist furnishings among kitschy Soviet artifacts. There’s more glitz and glam on the western side, but both sides have access to the same innovative and irreverent cocktail menu.

Fifth Province

Irish bars might be a dime a dozen in any sizable city, but not many can boast that they attract a true Irish clientele. Whether it’s live music, the food and drink menu, or the sense of community, this St. Kilda spot gets a thumbs up from the expat clientele it’s meant to represent, and lives up to its name as an unofficial “fifth province” to supplement the four that make up Ireland itself.

Need to know

Day trips

Phillip Island Penguin Parade

Each day at sunset, several dozen (up to several thousand) miniature penguins come in from the sea after having been out for several weeks gathering food. As the light fades to dusk, penguins line up among the rocks, then make a run across the open sand, waddling as fast as they can go on short legs in hopes of evading predators and getting up the hill to their burrows to feed their waiting young. It’s an absolutely adorable sight and an unforgettable experience. Several thousand people visit this island to view the penguins each day, but don’t let that dissuade you. Thoughtful planning has occurred to minimize the impact on the animals and provide a pleasant experience for visitors. As you walk back from the beach to the parking lot, you’ll be on boardwalks with penguins walking (and squawking!) alongside you. Choose the “Penguin Plus” tickets for a prime viewing spot directly along the penguins’ path up from the beach. Day tours from Melbourne are easy to find. For more time with the penguins, plan an overnight stay on Phillip Island so you don’t have to board the bus for the two-hour drive back to Melbourne.

Puffing Billy & Healesville Sanctuary

Initially built to transport supplies to local farmers, this narrow-gauge railway closed in the 1950s and later reopened for tourism. The steam train travels through a rainforest and allows riders to sit on the windowsills and dangle their legs out the side of the car. Day tours from Melbourne often combine a ride on the Puffing Billy, with a visit to Healesville Sanctuary, where visitors can see koalas, kangaroos, wombats, platypuses, and Tasmanian devils in a setting focused on conservation and education. (The itinerary also often includes a stop at Yarra Valley Chocolaterie & Ice Creamery on the way back to the city to finish off the day with a sweet treat!)

Great Ocean Road

Spanning 150 miles along the southern coast of Victoria, this scenic drive is a popular itinerary for day tours from Melbourne. It’s worth seeing regardless, but can often get quite crowded with tourists. For a more serene experience, consider a self-drive itinerary that takes you from west to east (against the usual flow of traffic), finishing in Melbourne, or even spending more than one day. Trust me—when you see these incredible rock formations and unbelievably blue waters and feel the fresh breezes coming straight from Antarctica, you’ll want to spend time at each of the dozens of scenic overlooks instead of rushing to get back to the city.

Geelong

This city just beyond the outer edge of Melbourne’s metro area can be a convenient stopover between Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road, and has local attractions to warrant spending a couple of nights or even an entire week. Enjoy the coastal beauty of the Bellarine Peninsula while hiking in a nature preserve or sipping local wine on a vineyard tour. Walk along the city’s promenade, admiring the quirky wooden statues carved in the shape of characters from the city’s history (such as lifesavers, sailors, and women in old-fashioned bathing costumes) and take a dip in a protected section of ocean water in the public swimming area. Walk in the botanical garden or visit the National Wool Museum.

Mornington Peninsula

On the opposite side of Melbourne is the Mornington Peninsula (southeast, whereas Bellarine is southwest). Here you will also find pristine beaches (including snorkeling and excellent seafood) and vineyards, plus natural hot springs. While this area is just a short drive from Melbourne, it has a totally different vibe—relaxed and natural-in contrast to the bustling urban center. For that reason alone, it’s worth staying a while instead of just visiting on a day trip.

Mungo National Park

Located on the shores of Lake Mungo—which is actually not a lake, but the dried-up bed of a prehistoric lake—this park is well worth the seven-hour drive from Melbourne, but be warned that it is very remote. You won’t have cell phone service for much of the drive, so you’ll want to download offline maps before starting, and travel with supplies in case of car trouble. When you arrive, you’ll be able to take a tour to view otherworldly sand formations and learn about the area’s history. This area has an active archaeological dig site with restricted access, but you can learn all about it (and see a plaster cast of 20,000-year-old footprints in the dried-up lake bed) at the visitor center. This is one of the most easily accessible locations to experience the Australian outback, and the views are unforgettable (including a night sky with brighter stars than I ever thought possible).

Ballarat

This town, which played an important role in Australia’s Gold Rush, is a convenient stopover on the way to Mungo National Park. Get tickets in advance for the Sovereign Hill living history museum, where you can step into the town’s past with lifelike exhibits and educational programs.

Advisor - Elizabeth Gudrais

Travel Advisor

Elizabeth Gudrais

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